a really nice place to live, its all old buildings, nice little vilages, a lot of culture, green hills and no ocean in sight. hmm.
8 years ago i saw a film. it was about a young man named rick if i remember right, who was fom arizona, winning some kind of contest in a weird surfpool, going to hawaii later. that film, tough not the best of its kind, changed everything for me.
i had to learn how to surf. so i did in 2000, 2000kms away from home, after almost 2 days in the car, i said hello to the beachbreaks of SW france. the beach said 2 foot onshore and mushy. go home! but i didnt.
since then i try to get into the surf as often as possible, which is about 3-4 times a year.
surfing changed my life, and is constantly changing it. it is getting the center of my universe more and more, from trip to trip. it teaches me how little i really need to live a happy life. it forces me to travel a lot, seeing different things, meeting different people who live a completely different lifestyle.
have i said that i love surfboards? no? well, i do.
its a weird thing. since i dont get to really surf that often, i spend a lot of time on the internet, reading about surfing, looking at pictures of waves, preparing and researching for trips and of course look at surfboards a lot. man, there are some beautiful surfboards out there. im a big fan of 70`s style boards like fishes and singlefins and stuff like that. i love how they ride, and the volume helps me out a lot too when i havent been in the water for ages. its not really easy to get my hands on boards like that here in the middle of europe. so after nights and nights of looking for boards on the net i decided to give it a shot and just build my own ones.
after studying in the sacred halls of the swaylocks.com university for a year or so, i finally dare to go for it.
i ordered the blank from the very nice guys at atua.cores in bordeaux, france. they have a cnc hotwire kind of thing where they can cut out blanks with the desired rocker, foil and outline from a block of EPS.
here it is:
a soon to be diamond tail 5`11 x 20 1/2 x 2 3/4 singlefin.
at the moment im getting everything together. my father fortunately lets me use his garden shed for spreading the foam, thanks pop. i will build shaping racks and get the shed ready this week hopefully.
so long. if youre still here thanks for reading and have a good one.
chris
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